Euphoria: The Use of Makeup in Television as a Vehicle for Storytelling
HBO’s Euphoria immediately caught eyes with its unforgettable glittery neon makeup looks, but the makeup serves a purpose much larger than merely pushing beauty norms. In fact, apart from the iconic cinematography and music, makeup is a crucial pillar of Euphoria’s success and is used as a tool to drive the plot forward by visualizing the inner transformation of the characters.
When the teen series first came out in 2019, Doniella Davy, head of Euphoria makeup department, stressed in an interview with Variety that ‘people have been using makeup to tell their own stories and express themselves for decades and centuries’ (Variety, 2020). However, makeup’s role in TV and film today has typically aimed to accomplish two simpler goals: touching up and fitting in. Producer Sam Levinson had a very different vision for Euphoria. ‘[Levinson] wanted to use the show as a platform to push forward makeup as self-expression’ Davy shares. Levinson encouraged her to ‘do things she’s never seen on TV before and go wild.’
Eddy Chen/HBO (2022) Rue: Season 1 vs. Season 2 Makeup
Season 1 is known for its impossible to miss makeup looks, including tons of rhinestones, bright colors, and geometric eyeliner shapes. And while these looks certainly pushed all boundaries of makeup norms in modern television, that wasn’t the primary goal. In an interview with Entertainment (Kent, 2019), Davy explains:
“Sam Levinson asked me to use makeup to portray the evolution of the Euphoria characters. And he encouraged me to do this while also pushing the boundaries of typical TV makeup”
The makeup in every scene was meticulously designed to reflect what the characters are going through in their lives. Davy refers to this as ‘emotional glam’, emphasising that the makeup is an art form that can add layers to a story. ‘I kind of look at makeup similar to music’, Davy shares in an interview with Insider back in December. ‘Like on TV or film, the music [can] emotionally elevate a scene. If the makeup I’m doing isn’t enhancing the story, then it’s not doing its job’ (Noyen, 2021).
In contrast to Season 1’s looks, the recently released second season is much more toned down in terms of makeup, allowing us to really start to see the evolution of the characters. Davy tells us to ‘expect less glitter’ because the show takes a darker turn. Most of the scenes are actually shot without the actors wearing any foundation. This bare aesthetic is intended to mirror the heavier content included in the new season. Whereas season 1 has been compared to the ‘life of the party’, Season 2 is more like the ‘introverted sister’, Davy informs us in an Instagram post - and the makeup certainly reflects that.
This change in makeup style is most immediately noticed in Maddy’s character. In Season 1, Maddy flaunts extremely flashy looks, spending hours in the morning applying handfuls of individual rhinestones. Her use of makeup helps to maintain her tough exterior and is utilized metaphorically as armor to protect herself. While Maddy continues to use makeup as an emotional shield in Season 2, she mostly sticks to a simple, sharp black winged liner. In another Instagram post, Davy compares this sharp eyeliner look to a ‘knife’ that can ‘cut through whatever stands in her way’. This intimidating look prepares Maddy for when she’s stabbed in the back, so to speak, by her best friend, Cassie, who hooks up with her ex-boyfriend.
Maddy’s toned down makeup also reveals that she is trying to achieve a more mature look. Her desire to grow up is apparent in the way she speaks eagerly about pregnancy and how powerful she feels while trying on the expensive clothes and jewelry of a wealthy woman she babysits for.
Eddy Chen/HBO (2022) Maddy: Season 1 vs. Season 2 Makeup
Meanwhile, Cassie strays away from conventionally pretty makeup looks in Season 1 and explores more feminine versions of herself in the new season. We see a total identity crisis as she loses herself trying to gain the attention of Nate Jacobs while also betraying her best friend. This constant emotional panic is skillfully reflected in her makeup. For instance, in the first episode of season 2, Cassie wears a delicate bedazzled wing with just a few tiny, silver jewels paired with a completely bare face. The audience is almost forced to perceive Cassie as innocent as she gets in the car with Nate even though we know what she’s doing is wrong. Davy shares that the jewels were designed to symbolize a naïve twinkle in her eyes, which also reveals to us that Cassie also believes her actions are justified and that she just can’t help herself under Nate’s influence.
Eddy Chen/HBO (2022) Cassie: Season 1 vs. Season 2 Makeup
Jules, on the other hand, moves in the opposite direction. Jules now wears darker clothes and makeup, diverting from her hyper-feminine neon looks in Season 1 as she questions her gender presentation and sexuality. In one bold look in the first episode, Jules sports a black geometric inner eye corner accent that feels “less like makeup itself, and more like a structural shape that draws us into her gaze,” according to Davy’s Instagram. It helps us focus on the struggle and emotional rollercoaster in her eyes as she peels back layers of gender identity and her attraction to Rue. In another look, Jules wears tiny white whisker wings on her bottom lid that are only visible up close. “I think she’s in a place where she’s protecting herself a little bit,” Davy speculates.
Eddy Chen/HBO (2022) Jules: Season 1 vs. Season 2 Makeup
The makeup in Season 2 of Euphoria continues to tell the unspoken stories of the characters’ inner worlds and provides the audience with a visual track record of their personal transformations. Though there are undoubtedly less sparkles in the new season to the disappointment of many fans, the show still pushes the boundaries of conventional beauty norms. We’re sure to see the profound impact of Euphoria’s makeup looks this year in evolving beauty trends that challenge us to wear makeup that truly conveys who we are and what we’re going through.
Bibliography
Kent, Clarkisha. Euphoria makeup artist on creating the show's iconic beauty looks and making fake penises. Entertainment, 16 August 2019. Available at: https://ew.com/tv/2019/08/16/euphoria-makeup-artist-doniella-davy-iconic-beauty-looks-fake-penises/ [Accessed 20 January 2022].
Noyen, Maria. 'Euphoria' makeup artist says to expect less glitter and more grit in season 2. Insider, 10 December 2021. Available at: https://www.insider.com/euphoria-makeup-artist-says-season-2-looks-less-glitter-2021-12 [Accessed 25 January 2022].
Variety (2020) 'Euphoria's' Makeup Boss Breaks Down Each Character's Look, How They Created Realistic Lip Tattoos. [video] Available at: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=MbRUWzOQJRM [Accessed 20 January 2022].
Illustrations List
HBO (2019) Cassie: Season 1 vs. Season 2 Makeup. Euphoria, S1. Image available at: https://www.comingsoon.net/tv/features/1085887-euphoria-season-1-episode-6-recap.
HBO (2022) Cassie: Season 1 vs. Season 2 Makeup. Euphoria, S2. Image available at: https://www.seventeen.com/beauty/celeb-beauty/g38727651/euphoria-season-2-makeup/.
HBO (2019) Jules: Season 1 vs. Season 2 Makeup. Euphoria, S1. Image available at: https://www.insider.com/euphoria-hbo-best-makeup-looks-maddy-jules-rue-kat-2019-9.
HBO (2022) Jules: Season 1 vs. Season 2 Makeup. Euphoria, S2. Image available at: https://www.byrdie.com/euphoria-hair-stylist-on-season-2-and-jules-haircut-5215523.
HBO (2019) Maddy: Season 1 vs. Season 2 Makeup. Euphoria, S1. Image available at: https://www.insider.com/euphoria-hbo-best-makeup-looks-maddy-jules-rue-kat-2019-9.
HBO (2022) Maddy: Season 1 vs. Season 2 Makeup. Euphoria, S2. Image available at: https://www.seventeen.com/beauty/celeb-beauty/g38727651/euphoria-season-2-makeup/.
HBO (2019) Rue: Season 1 vs. Season 2 Makeup. Euphoria, S1. Image available at: https://www.popsugar.com/entertainment/Funny-Memes-Tweets-About-Euphoria-Season-1-Finale-46454056.
HBO (2022) Rue: Season 1 vs. Season 2 Makeup. Euphoria, S2. Image available at: https://www.radiotimes.com/tv/drama/euphoria-season-2-release-date/
